ST. MICHAELS — After the cold temperatures of a January morning cut his hunting plans short, Ruse executive chef and partner Michael Correll went home to take a nap before work.
When he woke up, text messages from the restaurant’s partners were blowing up his phone. Then the general manager of The Wildset Hotel — which houses the restaurant in St. Â鶹´«Ã½ — called.
“So my first thought is something’s wrong,†Correll said.
When he picked up the phone, the general manager congratulated him. Correll had been named a semi-finalist of the James Beard Award for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic.
“I was just numb,†Correll said about how he felt when he learned the news. He called his mom, who started crying.
“It’s the biggest accomplishment an American chef can have,†Correll said. “I mean, besides Michelin Guide, James Beard is like the biggest one.â€
Established in 1990, the James Beard Awards recognize leaders in the culinary arts and food media industries, according to the James Beard Foundation’s website. He said the day after he received the news, the entire restaurant cheered for him during happy hour.
“I think the coolest thing about the whole process is just the outpouring of love from people,†he said. “Like people I haven’t talked to in a long time, people who I didn’t even know knew me, people just reaching out.â€
Correll has been serving elevated fare, switching up menus by the season and scouring the area for the best seafood since Ruse opened on Talbot Street in 2021. From the start, the restaurant aimed to bring a Washington, D.C., caliber of dining to the heart of St. Â鶹´«Ã½, focusing on sustainable seafood and local ingredients, Correll said.
For Correll, inspiration comes from trying different foods and keeping a finger on the pulse.
“The restaurant industry is constantly evolving and changing, so it’s just being aware of what’s going on,†he said. “But also it’s like, you have to put your own flair on it.â€
That inspiration doesn’t just come from fine dining. Correll said inspiration can come from any good flavor combination. He said he was inspired to create a steak tartare dish after eating a carne asada taco with salsa roja.
When it comes to the quality of seafood, Correll sources from different places to ensure it’s fresh.
“I do things the hard way,†he said. “Which is like, I find a guy who sells the best of something, and I buy that from that person. ... Just because that’s how you get the best product. You have to work for it.â€
Allie Balin, Ruse’s food and beverage director, said Correll and the entire restaurant is all about supporting local watermen, farmers and small businesses. She said Correll is collaborative when it comes to developing the menu too.
“Anyone who’s involved in any artistic pursuit, getting feedback on what you’re creating can be challenging,†she said. “And Mike takes it extremely well. His goal is just to create the best possible product.â€
As someone who played sports when he was younger, Correll sees the kitchen as a team sport of sorts. He said that a team mentality makes a kitchen successful.
“I think that’s what makes us special is the team,†he said. “Because, I’m not trying to brag, but food’s always going to be good. But the team is what takes it to the next level.â€
Correll said he will find out in April if he made it to the final round of the James Beard Awards.
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